When the great British mountaineer Mallory was asked why he climbed mountains, he always answered: "because they’re there". A stupifyingly obvious answer, when one gazes upon the Lotus Flower Tower. Located in the “Cirque of the Unclimbables”, the elegance of this six hundred meter arrow of sheer granite is equalled only by the beauty of the climbing on it. Large boulders cover the area, on which and under which you’ll have to wait for the needed two-day window of good weather. When the wall is dry enough, the dance can begin: hundreds of meters of cracks, which little by little rise up to chunky knobs, as welcome as they are strange.Once on the summit, looking at the clouds as they move rapidly over the immense forests below, you know why you climb. In the end, the hardest thing is not to answer the question, but rather to know where and when you’ll find another pillar as magical as the Lotus Flower Tower.
Map: 95L4 «Mount Sir James MacBrien» - 1/50000.
Department of Natural Ressources.
FOR MORE INFORMATION :
"Fifty Classic Climbs of North America" Steve Roper & Allen
Steck, Sierra Club Books, 1979.
Video Lotus Flower: Petzl.com/video.
Starting point: Fairy Meadows, Glacier
Lake. Accessed by float plane from Whitehorse.
Difficulty: Grade V (5.10). Sustained climbing. For Europeans,
it's 6a/b with one pitch of 6c.
Vertical gain: 600 m
Season: summer
Time required: 10h. Bivying is possible
Equipment: two sets of cams.
First ascent: James P. McCarthy, Tom Frost and Harthon
Bill (1968)
Copyright : photos Benoit Robert - text Jocelyn Chavy